Breakfast Pizza at Farinella

When I think of breakfast pizza, I usually picture being at the airport before 8 a.m. and dejectedly looking at the unappetizing slices under the heat lamp. But there is one place in the city that makes a truly delicious breakfast pizza: Farinella Italian Bakery Pizza & Panini. This pizzeria, which specializes in paper-thin crust pizza, makes a delectable morning slice which is dotted with salty little bites of pancetta. On top there are half-done sunny-side-up eggs and a drizzle of caramelly balsamic vinegar. In case you are not a fan of the unorthodox pizza, Farinella is happy to provide you with traditional marinara, margherita and pepperoni slices. It's all good.

(ETA: For another breakfast pizza option, try the organic scrambled egg and Fontina baked between two slices of thin, crispy focaccia at Gina La Fornarina, just a few blocks away on 2nd Ave. between 81st and 82nd.)

Farinella Italian Bakery Pizza & Panini: 1132 Lexington Ave. (212) 327-2702.

Where To (Deliciously) Celebrate a One-Year-Old's Birthday

This was my dilemma; Baby Vates was turning one. Since we share a birthday, I wanted to throw a very special kind of party. The adults would need something delicious to eat while the children ran around like maniacs. Baby gyms like Kidville and Gymboree rent space out for parties, but food is obviously not included. Alice's Tea Cup has a baby/kid menu but is much too civilized. One restaurant informed me that they could not fit our party at one table, but that we had better make sure that the children did not run around between multiple tables. Things weren't looking good.

After several days spent Googling, I finally found the perfect solution: the private party room at the 2nd Avenue location of Totonno's. A large upstairs space decorated with holiday lights was the venue for our joyous occasion, and the best part is that we didn't have to lift a finger. The experienced staff thought of everything. A guest who couldn't eat pepper was offered a Caesar salad while the rest of us devoured a zesty green one filled with olives and onions. An onslaught of brick-oven pizzas of every variety bombarded our 28-person table. Two plain pies for the kids were served first - they were topped with a generous layer of fresh handmade mozzarella. Someone got antsy - where is the rest of the pizza? Is any more coming? "We make everything to order," said the owner reassuringly. "Don't worry, we'll make sure they eat till they puke." My aunt pronounced the ensuing white pizza "the best I've ever had." Fresh basil and tomatoes that somehow maintained their sweetness in the middle of December adorned a cheese-heavy pie. Then there were mushroom pies, and sausage pies, and a fantastic pepperoni pizza that went in two seconds. The pepperoni had a spicy afterkick that rendered the pie completely irresistible. Then there was another pepperoni pizza. Appetites were starting to flag...

...when the lights went off, and two cakes - chocolate for me and lemon for my son - were served. I didn't even have to give any directions for the cake decorations. My cake sported pink icing, while my son's had an attractive blue design.

The adults left stuffed, the kids left tired out from fencing with balloons, and I left completely satisfied by a perfect party. (I also hauled out a week's worth of leftover pizza.)

Totonno's: 462 2nd Ave., (212) 213-8800. (NOTE: Sadly, both Manhattan locations are now closed. 4-2011)

The Plaza Food Hall

Walking into Todd English's brand-new Plaza Food Hall, I heard someone ask, "What are you in the mood for?" It wasn't a question with an easy answer. There was a sushi bar, a tapas bar, a brick oven for pizza, a cheese/charcuterie/bread/coffee/chocolate counter, a fresh seafood display a la Estiatorio Milos, an Asian dumpling bar, and a grill. Almost every seat was taken except a couple at the tapas bar, so that's where I plunked myself down. However, I was to find that every menu is available wherever one sits. (I wonder if this may change in the future, as there are plates of pesto maki flying all the way from the sushi bar to the folks ordering prime rib sliders at the other end of the room.)

I knew I wanted one of the blueberry-filled lemon meringue cupcakes I'd seen at the front, but I decided to pace myself, ordering... artichoke cacio e pepe, brandade fritters, charred octopus salad, grilled asparagus with preserved lemon zest, and lamb skewers from the tapas bar, a sweet Italian sausage pizza from the brick oven, and some crab salad rolls from the grill. (This was my only meal of the day, I swear.) For me, the standouts were: crab rolls... tons of sweet crabmeat tossed in mustardy aioli, spilling out of three toasted onion brioches; the sausage and aged provolone pizza with a marvelous, chewy crust that was not overcharred in the slightest; and the brandade fritters, which were lightly battered codfish cakes in a pool of romesco sauce and olive oil. (The one false note was the artichoke cacio e pepe, which was acrid and lacked pecorino - I think this simple dish of pasta, tossed only with black pepper and cheese, is perfect as is.) The cupcakes (chocolate grasshopper, strawberry cheesecake, and lemon meringue) were made by English's daughter; the homemade strawberry jam inside the strawberry cheesecake was a lovely surprise.

Now I'd like to go back to try the Kobe pastrami, the whole branzino, and the prime rib sliders!

(ETA: I just went back for lunch today, and I want to mention how accommodating the hosts were to my baby-in-stroller. When I'd requested outdoor seating at Sarabeth's, I was refused and told that I'd be creating a fire hazard. But when I got off the escalator and strolled into the Food Hall, a smiling lady led me to the seafood counter and let me park my City Mini right in the corner.)

The Plaza Food Hall: 1 West 59th St., Plaza Hotel, Concourse.

Motorino

How does a housemade mozzarella, anchovy, garlic, arugula, black pepper and olive oil pizza sound to you? To me, it sounded terrific, but there are so many other options on the menu at Motorino (the above item was a special). As at Franny's Brooklyn, Motorino sports a selection of appetizers and salads in addition to the pizza, but the prices are lower (and to me, the pizza is superior). There's a great $10 lunch special - you get a choice of a hefty, herb-sprinkled green salad or a soup (the day I went, it was a sweet corn chowder with lots of smoky pancetta), and a giant pizza that is big enough for two meals. My friend and I each ordered the margherita, made with melted pillowy fior di latte mozzarella. The crust was only slightly charred; I find that some pizzerias get carried away with the char lately, but not Motorino.

I wish I could say that I was able to try the tiramisu, but it was all I could do to get through two of my four giant slices of pizza!

Motorino: 319 Graham Ave., Williamsburg, Brooklyn, 718-599-8899.

Fornino

I was just about to slap a nice big slice of ripe tomato onto my sandwich when I heard about the recall. Oh well. Into the trash it went. But I still craved tomatoes!

At that moment, a friend called me to ask if I wanted to meet for dinner in Williamsburg. A light went on in my head... Fornino! A divine margherita pie, consumed in the backyard garden of this artisanal pizzeria, would be (cooked, and therefore safe) tomatoey perfection. I jumped on the subway and met my friend.

We began with a cheese-laden, creamy Caesar with two slabs of herbed focaccia, and then decided on a pie. The special included pesto oil and arugula. For those of you who haven't been to Fornino (this excludes everyone who lives in Williamsburg), the menu includes three "generations" of pizza, which become increasingly elaborate. Examples: a first generation might be a classic margherita pie; a second generation might be a margherita with the addition of some fennel sausage, and a creative third generation could be anything from a gorgonzola pie with rosemary and caramelized onions or a rock shrimp pesto zucchini pie!

For our part, my friend and I felt like luxuriating in melting pillows buffalo mozzarella, so we shared a large margherita D.O.C. A toothsome, slightly charred crust, a dusting of Parmesan, some basil sprigs and yes, that superlative tomato sauce made the pizza a pie to remember.

I had no room for the Capogiro sorbetto and gelato - next time. And if the tomato recall continues, that next time might be sooner rather than later!

Fornino: 187 Bedford Ave., Brooklyn. (718) 384-6004.

Pala Pizza Romana

A regular hangout for patrons and musicians from nearby Rockwood Music Hall, Pala bustles with activity. As the hours go by, you'll see many a guitar and bass come through the front door. But you'll probably be more focused on the luscious appetizers, pizza and dessert!

After catching a few shows at Rockwood (there's a new band every hour, starting at 6 p.m.), I walked into Pala with three friends. We were overwhelmed with the display of innovative pizzas (fior di latte mozzarella with leeks, pork sausage, sundried tomatoes and hot pepper; pumpkin-pancetta, Gorgonzola with asparagus, fior di latte mozzarella and tomato sauce).

Each oval pizza contained four slices, so we decided to order two pizzas and three appetizers. Appetizers were divided into fritti and salads. Crispy calamari and four plump zucchini blossoms stuffed with buffalo mozzarella and anchovies were our choices. "What are these!" exclaimed a newly-converted zucchini blossom addict. The blossoms were more heavily battered than the ones at Novita and Five Points, but still very tasty, with a hint of saltiness from the anchovies inside. We also ordered the slightly charred artichoke salad with large shavings of parmigiano, and eagerly scooped up every last bite with focaccia squares.

Soon the magnificent pizzas arrived. First was the buffalo mozzarella with intense cherry tomato sauce and fresh basil (there's nothing like melting fresh mozzarella) and then we enjoyed the Gorgonzola with asparagus. The asparagus was a bit limp, but the combination of melting Gorgonzola with that mozzarella was almost too pleasurable to describe! Both pizzas had a satisfyingly chewy crust, and the slices were so large that we were each satisfied with two pieces.

Of course, that satisfaction did not replace the need for dessert. Homemade tiramisu and a dense flourless chocolate cake were a lovely end to our lively evening!

Pala Pizza Romana: 198 Allen Street, (212) 614-7252.

Una Pizza Napoletana (CLOSED 7/09)

Today, I braved the thunderstorms to travel over to the brand-new S'mac, home of 10 different varieties of homemade macaroni and cheese. Unfortunately for me, half of NYC had the same idea, and by the time I arrived, S'mac had actually run out of food. It was 6 p.m., and they would not reopen until 7. Crestfallen, I walked out of the shop. A few doors down, Una Pizza Napoletana was half-empty.

I'd always heard wonderful things about this little pizzeria, so I sat my cheese-craving self down. The room evoked simple, Old World charm, and the menu described mouth-watering ingredients such as San Marzano tomatoes, Southern Italian extra-virgin olive oil, and fresh buffalo mozzarella.

UPT offers only four pizzas: cheeseless tomato, tomato mozzarella, white pizza, and tomato cheese with cherry tomatoes. So, if you're looking for a ham pineapple shredded chicken affair (blasphemy!) this is not the place for you. But the ingredients are of such high quality, and the pizzas so lovingly and artfully prepared, that you won't miss a thing.

I ordered the Margherita (tomato mozzarella) and was struck by what an aromatic pizza it was. A tumble of moist fresh basil decorated the olive-oil drizzled center of the pizza. The dough was fresh, a bit tangy and only slightly charred. (Some famous pizzerias in town tend to over-blacken their crusts.) Chunks of tender buffalo mozzarella melted into rich, fluffy pillows over a simple, delicious tomato sauce. All of the components, delicious on their own, came together in a delectable synergy.

Yes, I will attempt to make another effort (or three) to sample S'mac. But if the lines are as long as those of Shake Shack, I'll just dine at my new favorite pizzeria.

Una Pizza Napoletana: 349 East 12th St., (212) 477-9950.

No. 28

Many shed a tear at the shuttering of Grilled Cheese NYC. But today, I tasted the Italian equivalent of the best grilled cheese sandwich ever. No. 28, an authentic Neopolitan brick-oven pizza joint, serves a sumptuous 3-cheese piadina which outshines anything I ever ate at Grilled Cheese. The big round flatbread is alternately crispy and chewy, and it's stuffed with a perfect blend of melty Mozzarella, smoky Provolone and a hint of spicy Gorgonzola. Pure heaven.

(For those who are interested, No. 28 also happens to be the default neighborhood hangout for fans of international soccer. The restaurant's lights brighten during the commercials and are dimmed during the game.)

No. 28: 28 Carmine St., (212) 463-9653.

Pizza Freebies

Walking down a Williamsburg street, I caught sight of a large sign advertising free pizza. It turns out that although there is a catch, it's quite a small one! A pizza enthusiast has only to purchase one alcoholic beverage at Capone's Bar and he will be plied with an entire pie. What a deal!

I haven't yet been to Capone's, but I'm a huge fan of Waldy's Wood Fired Pizza & Penne, which offers its own unique freebie: complimentary anchovies. I'm aware that the appeal of anchovies is not universal, but who can resist a sweet and hot sausage pie with roasted peppers?

Capone's Bar: 221 North 9th St., Williamsburg, (718) 599-4044. Waldy's Wood Fired Pizza & Penne, 800 Sixth Ave., (212) 213-5081.

Adrienne's Pizza Bar

It didn't take long for the hordes of downtown pizza fanatics to discover Adrienne's! At 12:05 p.m. yesterday, there were only a couple bar seats left and no tables. Now, Stone Street is the spot for Swedish open-faced sandwiches, decadent French pastries, and awesome pan pizza.

$15 will get you 10 hefty square slices (enough for 3 people) served in a big rectangular pan. And don't spend your money on extra cheese... Parmesan is already baked into the crispy crust, and you'll also be served a dish of freshly shredded cheese to sprinkle to your heart's content.

Adrienne's Pizza Bar: 54 Stone St., (212) 248-3838. Get there early!

Lombardi's Original Pizza

Lespinasse and La Caravelle are long gone, but the coal-fired oven at Lombardi's Original Pizza keeps on chugging. I'm ashamed to admit that until last night, I hadn't yet visited this venerable pizzeria, which is the oldest in the United States. (The famous oven proudly sports the year "1905" in blue tile. Nostalgics will appreciate the old-time atmosphere and memorabilia; one could say that Lombardi's is a "slice" of old New York.)

Recently, Lombardi's underwent a renovation and expansion that will better accommodate its hordes of diners. Last night, my friends and I were soon seated at a round table in the newer front room.

I was immediately impressed with the toppings menu, which was more extensive than that of my local favorite, Nick's Pizza. The oven-roasted red peppers appealed to me, and the white pizza with clams sounded intriguing. We ordered the clam pizza and a traditional tomato pie, half pepperoni and half peppers.

The clam pizza was pleasantly garlicky, topped with breadcrumbs, Parmesan and a veritable avalanche of clams. Actually, I think that the amount of clams detracted from the pizza, and some of them were rubbery and overly chewy.

I then turned my attention to the more traditional pizza. In order to enthrall me, a red pizza must pass three tests: the sauce must not be too sweet, there should be a generous layer of fresh mozzarella, and, most important: the crust should be tasty enough to eat by itself.

The sauce definitely passed muster; the San Marzano tomatoes made it vibrantly flavorful. I also enjoyed the sweet red peppers. However, the cheese was missing some of the fresh, milky quality that I find at Nick's and Franny's. (Nick's Pizza has fresh mozzarella prepared especially for them every other day, and Franny's uses the unimpeachable Lioni's.) And when I looked at my companion's plate, large pieces of charred crust remained on it. (Some people gripe about the slightly charred crust at Nick's, but at Lombardi's, the charring was decidedly more pronounced.)

Still, the piping hot pizza was definitely enjoyable; I'd return just to try all the other toppings!

Lombardi's Original Pizza: 32 Spring St., (212) 941-7994.

Franny's

Since I have the luxury of living near Nick's Pizza, I rarely go searching for other pizzerias. Last night, however, I had such a spectacular pizza experience in Brooklyn that I will be regularly commuting there.

Franny's, a gourmet pizzeria so proud of its ingredients that it lists their origins on the back of the menu, has set a whole new standard for NYC pizza. Garlic salami, fennel sausage and guanciale are house-made and all produce is organically grown.

Last night, my companion and I started off with some Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and a couple appetizers: crumbled egg and bottarga crostini and roasted beet salad. Although the crostini were tasty and the roasted beets were sweet (if overpowered by a bit too much pistachio salsa), we soon realized that our appetite would have been better spent on the utterly dreamy pizza. Hearing the waiter's footsteps, we looked up expectantly and were met by a free-form beauty of a pizza, randomly charred, spattered with fresh melted mozzarella, and sprinkled with thinly-sliced cloves of garlic and whole black olives. And what a crust... crispy, moist and light at the same time!

I longed to try the four-cheese pizza (mozzarella, ricotta, Gorgonzola & Fontina), but my companion had no room. So I consoled myself with a vanilla bean-speckled panna cotta accented with tangy, syrupy saba (an Italian grape-juice beverage).

But it's that pizza I'll be thinking about all week.

Franny's: 295 Flatbush Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 230-0221. Closed Mondays and the last Tuesday of every month.

Nick's Pizza and Bonelle Pastry Shop

As any denizen of the outer boroughs knows, it can be difficult to convince a Manhattanite to meet outside the island. However, since moving to Forest Hills, I have tempted many a visitor with an evening of fantastic pizza and pastries, courtesy of Nick's Pizza and Bonelle Pastry Shop.

Typically, I'll meet a friend at the 71st and Continental stop on the E/F train. We'll walk to Ascan Avenue and then wait for a short while in the doorway of Nick's. Soon, we'll be graciously seated and will whet our appetites with a five-leaf salad sprinkled with plenty of Gorgonzola. We'll order a large white pizza with extra garlic and black olives, which will arrive topped with a thick layer of fresh mozzarella and a sprinkling of basil leaves. (One has the choice of ricotta, mozzarella or a combination thereof for the white pizza, but for me, ricotta seems most appropriate in the context of a calzone.) Then we'll order a pizza with luscious tomato sauce and mushrooms. The crust of each pizza will be thin and slightly charred on the bottom.

The tiramisu is fabulous at Nick's, but I'll want to impress my visitor with the variety of goodies at Bonelle Pastry Shop, which is right next door. We will ooh and aah over the chocolate raspberry mousse, strawberry shortcake, carrot cake and oversized eclairs. Everything is always impeccably fresh. On the weekends, if I crave a particular pastry at Bonelle, I make sure to confiscate it early in the morning. (I learned this the hard way; on more than one occasion, I had arrived just after a Long Island gentleman had driven off with all of the chocolate croissants.)

Pay me a visit soon!

Nick's Pizza: 108-26 Ascan Ave., Queens, (718) 263-1126. Bonelle Pastry Shop: 108-30 Ascan Ave., Queens, (718) 575-1792.

Finally, Good Pizza In Park Slope!

Last night my companion and I decided to take a walk down 5th Ave. in Brooklyn. We were hungry for something Italian, but we didn't want to pull out all the stops at Al Di La. I made a mental list of the casual dining options in the area and realized that I would probably have to settle for a sandwich. However, as we began to walk in the direction of Press 195, I noticed a large and bustling restaurant on the right side of the street. Drawing closer, I saw a counter overflowing with large pizza pies and a sign that said "La Villa".

Apparently, the new Park Slope location of this Howard Beach pizzeria is the only one with a wood-burning oven, and some of the results are comparable to Nick's in Forest Hills: the crisp and textured crust provides the foundation for a toothsome combination of thinly sliced fresh mozzarella, San Marzano tomatoes, herbs and olive oil. Both thin (Napoletana) and thick-crusted (Siciliana) varieties of pizza are available. I could not believe our good luck as I bit into a garlicky focaccia di nonna, or "grandma's pizza", which I preferred to the blander margherita. My companion and I also split a large plate of fried zucchini and an order of penne with sauteed spinach. On my next visit, which should be within the week, I shall either try one of the grilled panini or the sottosopra, an "upside-down" pizza with layers of homemade mozzarella baked under the sauce. If you beat me to it, please feel free to E-mail me a report!

La Villa: 261 5th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 499-9888.

"Dessert Pizza" in the East Village

Crunchy pizza crust smothered with hazelnut-chocolate spread is a wonderful, if unlikely, new trend. At Pie, they serve it open-faced with sliced bananas. At Lil' Frankie's, they stuff it with strawberries and sprinkle the top with confectioners' sugar. I don't know which version is my favorite... I suppose I will have to sample each one many times over!

Pie: 124 4th Ave., (212) 475-4977. Lil' Frankie's: 19 1st Ave., (212) 420-4900.

Grimaldi's Pizza and The Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory

Last night's culinary adventure was a trip to Grimaldi's Pizza and The Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory, both located by the river in Brooklyn. If you haven't been to Grimaldi's, let me tempt you: the thin-crusted pizza is topped with fresh mozzarella, not the shredded Velveeta that you find at so many Brooklyn pizzerias. Our favorite toppings are the sweet roasted red peppers (fresh, not canned) and the salty whole black olives (no tinny sliced olives here)!

We abstained from dessert (the usual suspects: tortoni, spumoni and cannoli) in order to visit the now-legendary Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory, which has only been open since September 2001. Various neighbors are protesting the existence of the Factory, so if you want to support good ice cream, sign the petition. We already lost Pete's, open for 25 years, to a landlord who raised the rent by 75%; the Factory is a good alternative (although I miss the brownies at Pete's!).

The Factory is close to my heart because it uses Michel Cluizel Belgian chocolate in the hot fudge. So I went all out for the creamy chocolate chunk ice cream (HUGE dark chocolate chunks) with hot fudge and whipped cream! My partner chose the strawberry ice cream, a little milky and sweet for my taste. We will try the peaches and cream next time, as well as toppings like toasted almonds and caramel.

Grimaldi's: 19 Old Fulton St., Brooklyn. (718) 858-4300. Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory: 2 Old Fulton St., Brooklyn. (718) 246-3963.